Gracie Baby Blanket

The Gracie Baby Blanket is an easy to knit blanket in a fine 4 ply or fingering yarn.

Blanket2It is light and airy, suitable for a new born baby girl or boy – pretty enough for a girl, but not too pretty for a boy. The sample here is knitted in traditional white but it would look equally good in a pastel shade or maybe a semi-solid or variegated yarn.

blanket8The blanket takes approximately 800 meters (870 yards) of baby yarn and is knitted at a tension (gauge) of 6 stitches to 2.5 cm ( 1 inch) in pattern.

There are also instructions on making a larger, heavier weight blanket if you want to use a heavier yarn.

Daisy 1Gracie Baby Blanket is named after the beautiful baby girl the blanket was originally knit for.

The pattern is available for £1.50 (plus vat if applicable). You can download a copy from Love Knitting, Ravelry or Etsy.

 

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12 thoughts on “Gracie Baby Blanket

  1. I have been working on the ships ahoy blanket and have finally come to the end. I wanted to make the blanket longer so I continue to row 29 and was about to put the garter stitches on when I am realizing that I am not getting the wave that was at the beginning. Where have I gone wrong?

  2. Hi Marilyn,

    You haven’t gone wrong at all. Because of the placement of the decreases in the pattern, which make the wave, it is not so pronounced at the top of the blanket as at the bottom. Once you have finished completely, if you give the blanket a wash and block you can give the top a little tug at each sail which will make it a bit more wavy.
    I hope this helps and thank you for purchasing the pattern.
    Mindie

  3. Hi Mindie! I love this blanket and am trying to knit it for a friend due in May. The problem I’m having, and I can’t figure out where I went wrong, one of the side moss stitch borders (that’s being built up as we knit the blanket) is all goofed up–it’s NOT suddenly showing in knit rows or purl rows, but the stitches don’t seem to be on top of one another properly. The problem seemed to start as we switch to daisy rows. Perhaps I loosened the tension on the stitches, or twisted them? But I don’t understand why both sides borders aren’t messed up–one side border is perfect, the other one is such a mess, I don’t dare take it apart because I really don’t know what I did wrong. I am such a beginner I have no confidence in my ability to tink it back that far (I’m in the 2nd series of 4 rows on the body). Should I start over? Should I use a basic rib stitch or stockinette for the border instead–could I even do that without heavy curling? I’m using Sirdar Snuggly yarn (I purchased your pattern as a kit from loveknitting.com) and sized 4 and 5 needles as recommended, but find the gauge for this yarn VERY TINY. I appreciate your advice and help here. Thanks so much! Laura

  4. Hi Laura,
    Don’t worry, I’m sure that we can sort out the problems you are having and that you will end up with a lovely blanket for your friend.
    Firstly, if you don’t feel confident enough to rip back to the beginning of the border, don’t worry. A few rows at the bottom of the blanket will never notice. The overall effect of the blanket is what everyone will see and I am sure that whatever, your friend will appreciate all the work you put into it.

    From what you say, you have mastered the daisy stitch, it is just the borders you are having trouble with and that should be fairly easy to remedy.
    If you have stitch markers, place one at each side of your knitting, 8 stitches in from the end. If you don’t have any markers just take two small pieces of yarn in a different colour to your blanket and tie them into a loop and place these there instead. This will separate the borders from the main stitch pattern of the blanket. You will now be able to see easily where the borders are.

    When you work your next row on the blanket, from the beginning of the row until you reach the first marker, just look at each stitch carefully, you may have to give the knitting a little gentle tug so you can see the stitch properly. If you see the first stitch is a knit ( so you have a little V hanging under the needle) then purl that stitch. If you see the first stitch as a purl ( so it will look like a little bar — under the loop on the needle) then knit that stitch. Work your way across the 8 stitches from beginning to the marker this way working each stitch as the opposite of what you see below the needle.
    Once you have reached your marker, slip this to your right hand needle and work across the body of the blanket in whatever pattern row you are on in the pattern until you reach your marker or yarn tag on the other side. Slip your marker to the right hand needle and then work the 8 stitches to the end in exactly the same way as you did before.

    However!
    If one of your borders is badly out of pattern you will notice when you go to work it that your stitches are not K1,P1 of the moss – like this: V–V–V–V– or –V–V–V–V but something else. In that case, ignore just for the first time what is on your needles and simply work K1,P1 across the 8 stitches. From then on, whenever you reach those stitches work them as above, opposite to what you see. You will then have bought them back into pattern and can continue correctly from there.

    Lastly, if you find that the very edge stitch is very tight (or perhaps loose) and it is distorting the edge so you can’t see what stitch it is then just make a little adjustment to how tight or loose you work that stitch. As you work you way up the blanket it will become second nature to work the first stitch slightly more carefully than the others. It can happen in all knitting as the first stitch is on its’ own so is very slightly less stable than the others who all have a ‘partner’ to keep them in line.

    I hope that this has explained things and will help you get back on track. If there is anything that is unclear or if there are any other questions, please do contact me again. I am always more than happy to help. If you would like me to take a look at your knitting you can always take a picture and email it to me at patternsupport(at)mindiedesigns.com and I will be happy to have a look.

    I wish you all the best with your knitting, do let me know how you get on.
    Mindie

    1. Hi Mindie! Thank you for your kind encouragement! Yes, I’m afraid the last thing you mentioned about them growing too tight and fell out of step is what happened. I am going to start the blanket over again with different yarn. A friend who crochets took a look at my yarn this afternoon and declared it defective–she thinks the unraveling probably knocked my moss stitch out of step. I’ve ordered a slightly thicker yarn for the next try. I’ll let you know how that goes. Thanks again! Have a great week! Laura

  5. Hi, Wonder if you could solve where I went wrong with my knitting “Gracie Blanket.” I cast on 185 stitches to make the larger blanket.. 31 x 38 inches. But I have knitted 18 inches of the blanket and found the width I have is only 20 inches. So not even the size of the smaller sized blanket. I have asked experienced knitters and they cannot see where I have gone wrong. To be honest I didn’t think to check the measurements before now. Any suggestions? Look forward to your thoughts. Many thanks. Angela

    1. Hi Angela thanks for getting in touch.

      I suspect that it is your tension/gauge that is causing your blanket to be much smaller than it should be. Knitting tension or gauge is a funny thing! I expect that you have heard that you could take ten different knitters and give them the exact same yarn and needles and have them cast on, say, 30 stitches and knit 30 rows. Every one of them will have a different sized piece of knitting.
      Although tension is not crucial when you are not knitting a garment, it can still make a huge difference to the size of the item you get. Even just half a stitch per inch can add up more than you would expect over the width of a piece of knitting. All knitters, whether they have been knitting for years or just a short while will have tension issues at some point which is why I always say ‘or the needle size you are using’.

      To measure the knitting tension on your blanket, take a ruler and a couple of pins or markers and, laying your blanket flat, place a pin or marker at the edge of one of the little stars that the pattern makes. It is probably best to do this a little way away from the edge of the blanket. Using your ruler, measure 4 inches across from your marked point and insert another pin. Don’t pull or squash the blanket just let it relax so you get an accurate measurement.
      It is not so easy to count on a pattern stitch rather than stocking stitch but it can be done. Each of those little stars is three stitches, so count the number of them between your 4 inch markers and times by three. If you have a part star, you should be able to see whether it is probably one or two stitches. The figure that you get is your knitting tension to 4 inches. If you want to be doubly sure, you can repeat this in a couple of places to get a bit of an average.
      The Gracie blanket has a tension of 24 stitches to 4 inches. Any number of stitches that is different from that will cause your blanket to be a different size, either larger or smaller depending on what figure you have.
      Going by the numbers you have given me you probably have about 35 stitches or so to your 4 inches. To get the correct tension more or less, you will need to go up a couple of needle sizes. If you started with the recommended size of 3.75mm/US 5 needles, I would suggest trying 4mm / US 6 or even 4.5mm/US 7 needles. This will give you a much larger and open, airy blanket.

      To check your tension on different size needles, cast on 33 stitches with your yarn and larger needles. work a few of rows in garter stitch (this stops the edge from curling) then:
      K4, work the pattern stitch to the last 4 stitches, k4
      Repeat this row, working the 4 rows of the pattern stitch between 4 stitches in garter stitch on each edge (again, this stops the edge from curling and makes it easier to count your stitches).
      Ideally, you should work about 4 inches then a couple of rows of garter stitch again, cast off/bind off and give your square a wash and block- but- many knitters will cut corners on something where an inch or so difference won’t be the end of the world. So – when you have a few inches of knitting, stop and measure your knitting between the garter edges. It should measure 4 inches. If you have more than 4 inches you could go down a size needle, if you have less go up a size needle and try again. If you have a very small discrepancy and are happy with the fabric that your knitting is making, stick with those needles, just be aware that your blanket will be a slightly different size.

      Unfortunately this means ripping back your blanket and starting again! Please don’t be disheartened though, we have all been there and there is not a knitter around that won’t feel your pain and will have been there more times than they care to tell you!

      If there is anything else I can help with, please do get back in touch with me. I always try and answer questions as soon as possible and am happy to help.
      All the best,
      Mindie

  6. Hi Mindie- I purchased the Alder Blanket pattern and wanted to be sure that the row of K1f&b is for the whole row. It seems that I’m making so many extra stitches and only decreasing on one row. Can you please let me know if this is correct? Thank you!

  7. Hi Donna,

    The K1f&b is for each stitch for the whole of the row. This only replaces the stitches that you have decreased on the previous row, k2tog for the whole row. The stitch count should return to normal after row 3 of the pattern, for eg. if you are knitting the 138 stitch blanket, the stitch count decreases to 74 on row 2 but increases back up to 138 by the end of row 3.
    I hope this makes things a bit clearer but if you have any problems, please get back to me.

    All the best,
    Mindie

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