Alder Blanket

This blanket is suitable for the beginner knitter as well as more advanced knitters looking for a simple knit. The pattern covers two different sizes, a small blanket for covering little knees in car seats or pushchairs and a larger more substantial cot sized blanket. 

When I am contacted by new knitters looking for an easy blanket project that will give them a stylish end product but one that is not too difficult, I always direct them to this pattern. The heavier weight yarn knits up quickly, so you get pleasingly quick results and the pattern is easily remembered (no constant referring to the pattern). The borders are knitted along with the pattern so there is no picking up of stitches and the end results give confidence to grow their knitting skills.


Having said all that, Alder makes good T.V. knitting for more accomplished knitters. Something to turn to when you need something relaxing.

The two samples here are knitted in very different yarns. Both look great but give a totally different feel. The cream being more classic for a new baby and the red much more contemporary.


Make it your own. The patterning on this blanket lends itself to all sorts of yarn, plain or variegated, striping or gradient. You could knit this in pure wool, a cotton or cotton mix yarn or an easy-care acrylic blend.  Maybe you would like a lap blanket to keep on your chair for those chilly evenings. The larger version of Alder would be great for this and you could choose a colour to match your decoration or that contrasts nicely with your furniture.

 PATTERN INFORMATION

Size:

Small: 58 x 76 cm / 23 x 30 inches

Large: 78 x 96 cm / 31 x 38 inches


Yarn:

Small: approx. 700m

Large: approx. 1200m

Any aran or worsted weigh yarn is suitable. Choose something soft and machine washable if knitting for a baby. The cream blanket show was knitted in Cascade Pacific a soft blend of Merino wool and acrylic. The red blanket was knitted in a now unavailable yarn but there are plenty of multicoloured yarns available to choose from.

Tension:

24sts to 10 cm in pattern.

The pattern stitch pulls in the knitting a little which is why this number is not what you would expect from an aran yarn.

Needles:

4 mm  or the size to get you the above tension for the main part of the blanket

3.5 mm or needles one size smaller than your main needle for the top and bottom borders

Circular needles are recommended due to the number of stitches. You will need one about 80cm long.


Notions:

2 stitch markers

Yarn needle for sewing in ends


Techniques Used:

Knit, purl and simple increases and decreases are used in this pattern. Full explanations are given in the abbreviation section of the pattern.

As always, pattern support is available for this and all my patterns by contacting me using the details in the side bar.

This pattern is available using this link from LoveKnitting.


There is a companion bag pattern, available separately, which goes with this pattern. The Alder bag is an all in one knit with a little seaming.

Seamless Felted Mary-Janes

This design follows on from my previous felted slipper patterns. They are knitted seamlessly from the bottom up and are pretty quick to knit, but these are a little different in construction with short row shaping.

Collective Shot

They are more form fitting than the others, being lower in the front and shaped for the back foot and heel. That said, they are still quick to knit – just a little more going on. I can make a pair in three hours, so not too bad.

Collective Side 2
Here I have put contrasting soles on them but they look just as cute in a single colour.

Pink Worn 4

The pattern covers shoe sizes UK 2 to 10½ / EU 33 to 45 / US 3 to 13;
these are approx foot lengths of 21.5 to 28 cm / 8½ to 11 inches.

The yarn I recommend for these is Cascade 220 (the original not the super wash  as that won’t felt) and the yarn is held double throughout. You can substitute a chunky/bulky yarn if you wish.


The pattern is available from LoveKnitting and Ravelry.

Slipper Felting Part 1

Slipper Felting – Part One

I thought it was about time that I gave my thoughts on felting. I’ve done quite a bit over the years, both intentionally and unintentionally! I once felted half my hand-knit sock collection in one easy move by setting the washing machine to an ordinary wash not a hand wash. Now, I always wash socks by hand!

Accidents apart, whilst writing my felted slipper patterns, and since for gifts for friends and family, I’ve probably felted more slippers than any sane person would want to in a lifetime.

I get a lot of questions by email regarding the subject, both from people whose projects have come out unexpectedly and those who need that little push to bite the bullet and actually throw their lovingly knitted item in the wash and shrink it. Felting puts a lot of people off, especially if they have a front loading washing machine. The thought of taking time to make something only to have it completely ruined in the felting process is just a chance some knitters refuse to take. I can understand completely and can still remember the first time I threw my knitting into the washing machine and left it to fate, and how I was so sure it was going to be a disaster. But felting can be fun and not as scary as it at first seems if you understand the process and are willing to experiment.
I’ve decided to split the subject into two. This, the first part is all about the yarn and the tension/gauge of your knitting. The second will be about exactly how to go about felting your knitting and the differing results you can get.

Yarn

Firstly, only use non superwash yarns for felting. That is, the type of yarn that has hand wash only on the label. It may seem obvious, but you would be surprised how this sometimes confuses people.
The yarn you use will affect the final outcome of your piece. This is true for all types of knitting projects from sweaters to shawls to socks. Just as the fibre content, twist and gauge affects how your knitted fabric looks and feels, the same is true for felting.

Some yarns will felt more that you ever thought possible. Some will resist so much you start to wonder if you’ve actually used a super wash yarn by mistake. There is one exception to this rule you should always bear in mind though – if you don’t want an item to shrink and felt, it will! Even those yarns you struggle to get to felt into a pair of slippers will still felt enough to make that sweater, at the least a bit stiff and at worst, un-wearable.

Yarns sold specifically for felting will, as they are supposed to, felt well. I started off my felting odyssey using these types of yarns and they do work very well although I did find some of them rather ‘hairy’ once felted. When writing the slipper patterns I also found them a little less consistent with regard to how much they felted each time. This is not a problem if you are felting an item such as a bag, but I wanted the slippers to have, as much as possible, a consistent amount of ‘shrinkage’ among them so I could size them as accurately as possible. I also wanted something that was perhaps sturdier and easily sourced.
For my samples I switched to Cascade 220. It is easily accessible and comes in a large colour palette (which at the time of writing this is about 150 different shades). I found that it felted well and gave pretty consistent results. I have used other yarns with very good results, Elann and Drops Yarns make some very good worsted weight non super wash wools in lovely colours but the list is pretty endless really. My personal preference for felting yarns are 100% wool yarns that are plied, i.e. have two or more strands twisted together. I find them nice to knit with and stable in the felting process. They also don’t shed an awful lot of fibre into your machine in which can happen if you choose to felt with a singles (one continuous twisted strand, un-plied) yarn.

Some people prefer their felted items to loose all stitch definition and just look, well, like felt. Some, and I probably fall into this category, prefer a little of the stitches to show. I  couldn’t tell you why exactly, it may be something to do with it still looking hand made or knitted. Whatever your preference there is a yarn out there for you – experiment is the key.

These are just my opinion and preference. There are many, many yarns that are good for felting. Don’t feel confined to use any specific one. Try your favourite yarn, or one that you have in stash. Just make sure that it is non-superwash and be prepared to experiment, you could get some very interesting results.

If you have never tried a particular yarn, or have done some felting with one yarn and want to switch to another, make a swatch and felt it. I know most of us hate doing it, but it does give you a good idea as to the final fabric you will get, how much it will felt (don’t forget to measure it before you felt it) and what it will look like. It all adds to your knowledge of that yarn before you start your project and takes a little of the mystery out of the process. No need to put the washing machine on just for one tiny swatch. Just throw it in with a wash that you happen to be putting on anyway and see what happens.

At the end, you don’t only have a little sample of your end product but felted swatches make great coasters!

Gauge / Tension

The gauge/tension you work to will affect how your item felts. The movement of the stitches is a factor in the felting process. A tightly knitted piece with less room for the stitches to rub against each other will be harder to felt than something with a more open stitch. This is why my adult patterns are worked at a gauge of only 3sts per 2.5 cm/ 1 inch on 8mm needles. Even though the yarn is doubled, there is still plenty of room for the yarn to move around and felt.
Below are two knitted samples. They are knitted from the same yarn, same amount of stitches and rows and were felted in the same wash. The only difference between the two is the gauge/tension they were knitted at.
Before you say it, I know that having the same amount of stitches knitted at different tensions gave me two samples of different sizes. But for all of the samples I knitted for this piece on felting (there are more in part 2 ) I measured before and after and calculated a percentage decrease in size. So effectively the starting size does not particularly matter here. Besides, to get the two to exactly the same starting size I would have had to knit a swatch to work out the gauge before actually knitting the swatch.  And knitting a swatch to be able to knit a … swatch… was just beyond my limit at the time!

This first sample; Sample A, was knitted at the standard tension/gauge for the slippers, 3 sts per 2.5 cm/1 inch on 8 mm/US11 needles. The yarn was held double, just as it is in the slippers. I knitted 14 sts x 14 rows and it measured 115 mm x 100 mm or 4 ½” x 4″ before felting.

img_3052

Sample A

In the above picture it now measures 100 mm x 74 mm.  The percentage of decrease is 13% on the width and 26% in the height.
Knitting always shrinks more in height than width. Something to remember when knitting something for felting.

Sample D below was knitted exactly the same but I changed down to 6mm needles. The sample measured 95 mm x 82 mm or 3¾” x 3¼” before felting. It was put together with sample A and felted.

img_3054
Sample D

After felting it measured 85 mm x 70 mm. This is a percentage decrease of 10.5% in width and 14.6% in height.
So tension matters quite a bit. The big loose sample shrank by 13% in width compared to only 10.5% for the tighter knitted one. The height on the loose sample decreased by 26% where as the tighter gauge one only lost 14.6% in height. Quite a difference.
You can also see the difference in stitch definition between the two samples. In sample A, although you can still see that the swatch had garter stitch edges, the centre stocking stitch area has lost almost all definition where as in Sample D you can see much more of the stitches all round.
And of course, gauge is also important for determining the final size and shape of the piece. Even though you are going to felt your item and that is adjustable to a certain extent, it is still important to start out with the piece the size that it states in the pattern.

Well, I hope that this has given you a few tips about felting yarns and gauge. In part two, I will get into the kitty-gritty of throwing your slippers into the machine. The differences that you can expect and what to do if things don’t go as planned.

ssk & k2tog

SSK & K2tog are both common directional decreases.

When you use ssk, the result leans to the left. When you use k2tog, the result leans to the right. Both decrease one stitch by working two together.

SSK is one of several left leaning decreases and probably the newest. Other methods used were sl1k1psso – slip one, knit one, pass slip stitch over and k2togtbl – knit two together through back loop. All good and all appropriate in different situations or personal preferences.

No left leaning decrease is the exact opposite of k2tog. They all look a little, well, less neat than their counterpart. Which is how the ssk decrease came about really. Knitters wanted something that looked as good as k2tog but went the opposite way.
Since it first arrived on the scene, even the ssk has changed slightly, going from slipping two stitches knit wise, to one stitch knit wise and one purl wise in an attempt to neaten things up even more. Recently I have even seen a newer version where the stitches are twisted before being worked, but I’m not going to discuss that here.

What I really wanted to show you was the ssk decrease that I use in my patterns and to hold it against the k2tog so you can see the results and understand how to work them.

What follows is a little photo tutorial that show the two decreases.
Firstly, k2tog….

 

 

Next, the ssk decrease ……

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And finally, how they look together…..

 

CDD – Central Double Decrease

CDD – Central Double Decrease is exactly what is says on the box. A double decrease which is central, i.e. it neither leans to the left or to the right but the stitches are decreased evenly, one each side of a central stitch.
Or, in other words, this decrease reduces three stitches down to one, in a vertical line.

As with all the double decreases, they are occasionally used in shaping but more often in stitch patterns.

Here is a quick photo tutorial on how to work this interesting decrease.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trillium

A simple but stylish design for a little one

The simple eyelet pattern on this blanket forms little trillium, or three petal flowers, in an all over design.
Suitable for the beginner knitter, the blanket is knitted all in one with the garter stitch borders knitted as you go.

If you want a lightweight blanket you can knit this in a 4ply or fingering weight yarn or for a more substantial blanket for colder months you can knit one up in a DK weight yarn.

Make it your own. The pictures here show the sample blanket in cream but this blanket would look as good in just about any colour that you can dream of. On a lot of designs, a lighter colour is preferable as they show up the pattern stitch to its maximum effect, but here I think you could even get away with some very dark colours and still have a great looking project. I think a navy blue one would be lovely.
I have also included information in the pattern for varying the width of your blanket by adding or subtracting horizontal pattern repeats and how much that will change the width or your blanket, and of course you can always make it longer or shorter by simply adding or subtracting vertical repeats.

Pattern information

Size:
approx. 66 x 76 cm / 26 x 30 inches for both the 4ply and DK versions

Yarn:
DK blanket; approx. 850m of a soft DK weight yarn suitable for a baby blanket
4 ply blanket; approx. 1100 m of a 4ply or fingering weight yarn

Tension:
DK blanket; 22 sts x 28 rows to 10 cm 
4ply blanket; 28 sts x 36 rows to 10 cm 
In stocking stitch


Needles:
DK blanket; 4mm needles
4ply blanket: 3.5mm needles 
Or size to get you the correct tension. Tension is not crucial but working to a different tension will result in a blanket of a different size and may take more or less yarn.

Notions:
2 stitch markers for separating border stitches from the central pattern

Techniques:
Knit, purl, yo (yarn over), k2tog and a double decrease is used when knitting this blanket. All stitches are outlined in the abbreviation section of the pattern and tutorials are being added to the site for stitches and techniques used in my patterns.

As always, pattern support is available for this and all my patterns using the link in the side bar.

This pattern is available to download from LoveKnitting

Ship Ahoy !

Lots of little sail boats float across this blanket.

The pattern is suitable for advanced beginners upwards and makes a great blanket for snuggling baby in. 
Knitted in a DK weight yarn the pattern is written for two different sizes of blanket and is just as striking knitted in a coloured yarn as it is in the sample white.

The bottom edge of the blanket has a gentle wave to it, the top edge curve being less pronounced.

The pattern is written as well as charted so you can work with whichever you prefer and I have put each of these on a page of their own for ease of use.

Make it your own by using any colour which suits your scheme. A slightly colour washed yarn would look great and you can easily make the blanket longer or shorter by simply working more or less pattern repeats.

PATTERN INFORMATION

Sizes:  
Small: 70 x 80 cm/ 28 x 32 inches 
Large: 86 x 96 cm / 34 x 38 inches

Yarn:
Sirdar Snuggly DK or any other DK yarn you would like to use that would be suitable for a baby blanket. 
If using Sirdar Snuggly you will need approx. 5 balls for the smaller blanket and 7 balls for the larger one.
If substituting another yarn you will need approx. 800 meters for the smaller blanket and 1200 meters for the larger blanket.

Tension:
The required tension for the pattern is 22 sts x 28 rows for a 10cm/4 inch square in stocking stitch.
For a blanket, tension is not crucial but if you do knit to a different tension you may need more or less yarn that stated and your blanket will be a different size.

Needles:
3.75 mm  or size to get you the required tension. A long circular needle of between 80 – 100 cm is needed to accommodate the number of stitches.

Techniques Used: 
Knit, purl, yo (yarn over), left and right leaning decreases and double decreases are used in this pattern. All explanations are in the abbreviations section of the pattern. 

Pattern support is available for this and all my patterns by using the email address at the top of the side bar. 

This pattern is available from LoveKnitting.